Visit Forodhani park and line up behind the locals to escape some of the tourist scams.
Then you are in for a real treat!Vendors come and set up their grills and their seafood delights -- all kinds of fish on kebabs to be grilled at your pleasure -- kingfish, tuna, shrimp, calamari, octopus, shark as well as chicken and beef and vegetables.
Be sure to try the Zanzibar Pizza, which is a fried dough concoction and the freshly squeezed sugar cane juice with lime and ginger.
If it is a weekend night, sit on the shore and enjoy a feast for your eyes as the Muslim women stroll in their best, bejeweled and adorned hijab, with hennaed hands and impeccably applied makeup.
There is a lovely place to get coffee and snacks just next to the front with chairs and umbrellas.
At night there is a huge open air market selling fresh food at amazingly cheap prices.
(Don't know if it is there all the time but was open every night of our stay.
Lots of fish/ kebabs/garlic bread/ chips and other local specialities....try the Zanzibar pizza...bit like a square calzone with egg in it...delicious!
Only thing I DISLIKED were the disgusting, smelly toilets ...complete with 3 chaps sitting on plastic chairs outside demanding 500 TZ shillings for the privilege! (I complained and refused to pay)...such a pity,